Yakan Tribe Weaving
The
southernmost major island group of the Philippines, Mindanao, is home
to several tribes. One of these is the Yakan tribe, which lives on the
hillsides of the island of Basilan. The Yakan is a horse-riding hill
tribe and is one of the major indigenous tribes in Mindanao. The Yakan
is considered one of the 13 Moro groups in the Philippines.
The
Yakans traditionally wear colorful, hand-woven clothes. Yakan weaving
has become very popular in the Philippines. The Yakans turn the
pineapple and abaca into fibers, which they use as their basic weaving
material. Herbal extracts from leaves, roots and barks are used to dye
the fibers which they weave into tapestries filled with intricate
designs.
Yakan
women are excellent weavers, and are famous for their beautifully woven
traditional costumes of cotton and pineapple cloth. The basic garment
for men and women consists of a tight-fitting upper garment with
tight-fitting trousers called sawal.
The shirt is open in front from lapel down to the waist, using up to 40
sequined or golden buttons. To close the shirt, a long string is
crisscrossed from one button to the other so that when tightly drawn,
the shirt closes from top to bottom. Usually the shirt remains open
since the string is often lost. Over the shirt, male and female wear a
tight-fitting jacket, which is exquisitely embroidered in the front and
back, with cuffs decorated with multicolored sequins.
The
difference in male and female apparel lies in accessories. Men wear
hand woven pis (head cloth) and a 15m-long kandit (belt or sash) made of
red cloth called gilim. The pis serves as "protection" from spears and
knives during combat, and may be fastened around the trousers. The women
wear a short skirt over the trousers, around which a rectangular, hand
woven cloth is tied. This cloth is the most expensive part of their
costume because it is woven in a tedious manner. Men and women wear the
saruk, the Yakan hat worn to make one look more attractive and elegant.
Some wear the hat over the turban and use it as a purse for betel nuts,
tobacco, and money. Yakan warriors wear a bulletproof shirt prepared by
hadjis and imams who write Arabic script all over the shirt (Sherfan
1976:160, 205-207).
Ornaments
such as necklaces may be worn as charms. A crocodile tooth polished
with a hole at the base is believed to bring good luck when worn as a
necklace. The Yakan also wear amulets against bullets. These contain
unreadable symbols, are wrapped in black cloth, sewn in triangular form,
and tied around the neck. Belts made of snake bones are strung together
to protect them against bodily pain. One charm that protects them from
sicknesses due to evil spirits is the manik tegiyas - a necklace or
bracelet made of the fruits of a flower beaded together. The manik
sembulan is made of a bamboo stem cut into short pieces, strung together
either as a necklace or bracelet, and serving as added protection
against sickness inflicted by evil spirits. To gain more strength
against evil spirits, men and women wear the anting-anting. This
consists of a string with a piece of cloth containing beads as pendant
(Sherfan 1976:143-147).
No comments:
Post a Comment